This week’s group is, uh, a little everywhere, and it’s because the “best” vintage watches for sale online tend to resemble that some weeks, so let’s get right into it. Don’t forget to stick around for the last pick; it’s a watch from a “brand” you probably haven’t heard of that, in 1930, made the most complicated wristwatch in the world.
Recapping results from last week, we saw three of the five picks get sold, and that is a fantastic result. Our neo-vintage Parmigiani Toric Chronograph sold for $25,600 at Bonhams, blowing past the $5,000 – $7,000 estimate. The sneaky Patek Philippe ref. 96 on a not-so-attractive bracelet did well, selling for $12,000. Our Tiffany-signed Movado on eBay sold for $2,625.
1975 Cartier Reversible Dual-Time Tank
This is a moderate take on a Tank and features Cartier’s Duble Time Zone Reversible Watch, which was manufactured between the early 70s and the late 70s. This was the first model following the merger between Ebel and Cartier, meaning it was produced in Canada, which is why it received the branding “Reverso,” as there is no known documentation proving that the watch was ever made in France, although the sticker claims so. The watch is claimed to be Swiss, which is known to be the working boots for service members.
Cartier has been designing wristwatches since this period, leading to the spiral production in Canada, The brand produced these models before this date in the 1940s, including those credited to Cartier but produced under the sign JLC, is dubbed Reversos. Cartier doesn’t remain stagnant, as the same design is used with a different structured case and lens mount on this model dual dial and movement showing through the center. Those appear to offer reliable pricing, as they can be found for a little less than half the price of this watch as one could say, half the price for half the watch.
The Dual-Time features two Frédéric Piguet caliber 21 movements fitted in it – one of the best ultra-thin calibers of the time. The “front” dial has the customary Cartier treatment composed of black Roman numerals over the white background, as well as the noon crown. The bottom dial uses the champagne finish and serves the bottom crown, which is the “back” dial. Being the FP cal. 21 is a manually wound movement; both crowns need winding to keep everything in harmony.
The condition here is as good as they come for this model. The case appears sharp and unused, with the exception of the caseback not being polished. The dials are tidy, along with all movements, which were serviced by Cartier in 2023 get ready to bid with confidence!
This “Reverso” piece made by Cartier is lot number fifty-nine in Lyon & Turnbull’s curated event centered around Cartier Cartier Curated Sale focused on the brand and spearheaded by Charles Tearle, the former head of watches at Sotheby’s, on the date April twenty-ninth of the year 2023 at 2 PM British Summer Time. The estimate sits between twenty-five thousand and thirty-five thousand GBP. Find the auction listing from here.
Abercrombie & Fitch Seafarer By Heuer Ref. 2447, 1960s
The Abercrombie & Fitch label may have been associated with that cramped mall outlet soaked in acrid cologne. Still, at one point (“cool” period), it was appreciated for a much more positive reason. A&F was founded back in 1892 and, at the time, was the go-to for Ernest Hemingway, Amelia Earhart, and even Presidents Eisenhower and Kennedy. Abercrombie’s twelve-story headquarters on Madison Avenue even had a rifle range, casting room to test fly rods and outdoor watch department. Yes, Swiss brands competed for attention there.
The partnership between Heuer and Abercrombie & Fitch resulted in their co-branded products, such as the tide-indicating Seafarer and other chronograph watches A&F commissioned on trips to Switzerland. It is safe to say Abercrombie ushered in the golden age of Swiss watches by literally ordering them in Heuer stores.
The model’s variants tend to blend into one another, but the ref. 2447 does indeed stand out, as it is the only Seafarer set in the classic 1960s Carrera case. There is nothing quite Heuer about manually wound chronographs, and the Seafarer is the ultimate version. When these do get sold, it’s maybe once or twice a year, and more often than not, the condition is less than ideal. This one is exceptional, or rather, stands out, and has an extraordinary patina as well; in my view, it’s a top 15% condition example.
The selling price just comes with patience. The auction house goes ahead and claims that this Seafarer was told to them by a direct descendant of the original owner, this “Newport Rhode Island Gentleman,” who happens to be the first director of the Historical and Preservation Society of Newport County. Not too shabby, eh?
You can catch this Abercrombie and Fitch Seafarer as lot 175 of Grogan and Company’s Fine Jewelry sale, scheduled for Sunday, May 4th, at 11:00 AM ET. The price is estimated to lie somewhere between $12,000-18,000. All of the details can be found right here.s
Patek Philippe Solar Desk Clock For Tiffany & Co. Ref. 902, 1960s
Today, Patek Philippe may appear to be an “old school” brand, but in the 1940s, it was pioneering the research into timekeeping technologies. During this time, Patek Philippe started looking into different ways of measuring time, including electronic, nuclear, and, of course, solar. One outcome of this “parallel” division at Patek Philippe was the solar desk clock and the range of references manufactured from the 1950s to the 60s.
The helpers of these clocks used to be very basic and came with a silver case. As far as Patek Philippe latest innovations went, they were quite simplistic and, as always, strived for functionality. If exposed to light, they would maintain the ability to “run” for a year when kept in the dark, which promised a return of accuracy authentic to Patek Philippe of one second a day.
In the mid to late 1960s, these solar desk clocks were marketed as luxury products. This one, a reference 902, dates from 1966 because the back says, ‘Presented to Mr. J.H. Tyler McConnell, Director Hercules Powder Co.’ From an engineering standpoint, a solar panel collects solar energy and charges an accumulator, which then energizes a pocket watch mechanism that rotates the hands cutting-edge technology meets ancient watchmaking.
I have never had the chance to look for a Patek Philippe desk clock, but if given the opportunity, I would pay close attention to this one. Signed by Tiffani and Co., this piece does come with an interesting story and carries a very Mad Men characteristic.
This Patek Philippe desk clock comes to us as lot 24A of the Multi-Estate Art Jewelry & Antiques sale Bill Hood & Son will be held on Sunday, April 29th, at 3:00 PM ET. They expect it to go for between $1,000 and $4,000. Check it out right here.
Rolex Oyster Perpetual 1957, Ref. 6532
Every week, when I hit the Bring A Loupe searches, I get excited every time I come across the clean vintage Oyster Perpetual. The vintage Rolex market always seems to revolve around sports models; You keep getting GMTs, Submariners, Daytonas, and, after a while, the rest. Either way, the simple OP should not be overlooked. In my opinion, the OP is Rolex at its best. No tangles, automatic movement, water-resistant case, and that’s it. If they are found in excellent condition like this one, they are one of the best watches for everyday wear. That is if you’re ok with wearing a 70-year-old watch that has a hint of radium lume.
With that in mind, I wouldn’t worry about the radium harmful to a watch like this one. But I’m no doctor. So, make sure to do your research. While shopping for something similar, please pay attention to the sharpness of the lugs here and the even patina on the dial, which presents itself as cream-colored throughout. This is what you want. Remember, especially with radium, too much patina on the dial can whisper “heroic age relic,” and sometimes, that is not the most enjoyable experience with ownership.
This Rolex ref. 6532 is lot 82 of Hansons Auctioneers and Valuers London Fine Art, Antiques and Collectors Auction sale on Monday, April thirtieth, two thousand twenty-three, starting at nine-thirty in BST. The estimate is six hundred to nine hundred pounds. You can get the full scoop right here.
In Sterling Silver 1930s James Schulz Monopusher Chronograph
Let me put it this way: the price set by the seller on eBay seems overly high to me. Still, it was too good of an opportunity not to try and tell the story quickly, and a buyer can always negotiate the price. We will discuss that later on, but as always, let’s provide some context first.
James Schulz’s business as a watchmaker and importer was based out of New York. It is rather evident that Schulz contracted some really cool wristwatches from Switzerland during the early days of wristwatch production, though no information seems to substantiate this. Look no further than this grand comp, the most complicated wristwatch in the world when it was produced in 1930. It has the iconic Stern Frères dial, a Victorin Piguet movement, and a platinum case, thus making it a perpetual calendar chronograph with a minute repeater and a 29mm case made of platinum.
Regardless, let’s return to looking at the watch. This particular timepiece is a mono-pusher chronograph in sterling silver from the 1930s. Examples have popped up for sale at Antiquorum before, and it looks like the model was produced in yellow gold and silver. Although it is a bit small at 29mm in diameter, on the wrist, it could have a Patek 96 look. I don’t see any glaring condition issues or fundamental faults; it’s as if the watch has been kept in a time capsule.
A Houston-based eBay seller has placed a Schulz on auction for $3,500 with an option for immediate purchase or offers.
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