Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso is a manufacturer. Most obviously, a watchmaker, but in 2025, the term is used far too frequently to characterize watch brands, particularly in direct comparison to JLC. We know the history and that JLC is “the watchmaker of watchmakers,” providing movements across the industry, including many renowned models from competitors. However, as the broader industry has shifted to in-house production, the significance of being a “real” manufacturer has been diluted. This is so much so that JLC, the company that should be proud of its manufacturing ability, has frequently adopted a “show, don’t tell” strategy.
Instead of focusing entirely on its arguably industry-leading movement-making abilities and history, JLC quietly offers watches such as the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Monoface Small Seconds on a Milanese link bracelet, which are the ultimate reminder of the brand’s manufacturing expertise. The watch is a not-so-subtle take on the traditional, dare I say iconic, Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute we all know and love, but the bracelet, oh the bracelet, is a work of beauty in its own right. JLC’s Milanese bracelet, which is woven, stamped, and hand-soldered link by link, is a work of art and ideally suited for a market increasingly obsessed with bracelets.
You don’t need a crash course in the history of the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso, but some context points are relevant to this watch. Yes, this design and family of watches dates back to 1931, when it was created as one of the world’s first “sport” timepieces for polo players in British India. Many early models, including those in smaller sizes designed for women, were made of stainless steel and proudly displayed the word “staybrite” on the case back. Tavannes, JLC, supplied the movements for the original 1931 manufacturing run, and they were a verified success. It soon produced a variety of in-house calibers for the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso casing, which debuted in 1933.
1933 is significant in Reverso’s history because the brand recognized the design’s potential and incorporated additional artistry into the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso. This year, the Reverso’s second face will feature engraved, enameled, and lacquered monograms, coats of arms, and symbols, marking the beginning of the Reverso’s transition to a luxury offering.
In 1991, to commemorate the Reverso’s 60th anniversary, JLC introduced the first of six complications: power reserve and date (1991), tourbillon (1993), minute repeater (1994), chronograph (1996), Geographique (1998), and perpetual calendar (2000). These six complicated watches completed the Reverso’s transformation into an authentic luxury product, allowing JLC to demonstrate its watchmaking abilities.
The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso began as an early sports watch and was later redesigned as a sumptuous platform for complications. In recent years, it has become a hybrid of the two. The Grande Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Ultra-Thin Tribute To 1931 US Limited Edition from 2011 is the most recent milestone in the model’s history. A lengthy name for a basic watch, the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso lays the groundwork for the Tribute we know today, a respectful and modern reworking of the original. This one has long been Ben Clymer’s favorite, who described it as “simply what real watch guys want” upon its release. In 2013, Jay-Z wore a pink gold variation onstage at Carnegie Hall.
The current catalog includes sophisticated alternatives such as calendars, the new trébuchet hammer, the crystal gong-equipped Tribute Minute Repeater, and simple, simpler, sportier options like the Tribute Monoface. New for Watches and Wonders 2025, the Tribute Monoface Small Seconds on its Milanese link bracelet completes the cycle of what makes the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso so unique today. It’s simple, reverent, sumptuous, and full of craftsmanship, even without a complication.
The latest Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso is powered by the caliber 822, which was launched in 1992. While some may consider it outdated, it’s worth noting that JLC’s most revered caliber, the 920, dates back to 1967 and is still used in some of the most famous watch designs. The 822 is no less purposeful: it is specifically designed for the Reverso casing, has a 42-hour power reserve, and is manufactured wholly in-house.
The rose golden dial with a rough, grainy finish rounds out the monochromatic effect. The effect is accomplished through numerous stamping operations and does a good job of toning down the watch’s overall appearance just enough. If JLC had chosen a more traditional dial finish, such as the sunray brushing of other Tribute Monoface models, the all-gold pattern here could have been overwhelming. The dial is delicate and modest for a watch made of pink gold, making it quite wearable.
The normal Tribute Monoface case has been modified here so that the bracelet looks blended with the lugs, but the dimensions remain 45.6mm in height, 27.4mm in width, and 7.56mm in thickness. Much of the feel on the wrist is wrapped up in the bracelet; however, the measurements are a little overstated when it comes to the case. I prefer smaller watches and would gladly wear this Reverso, albeit that could be due to the excellent band.
Two pink gold strands, totaling over 16 meters, are painstakingly braided to create the Milanese bracelet’s distinctive fabric-like texture, pizza. A single artist weaves the bracelet without interruption before stamping it and delicately hand-soldering each link. The end effect is a fabric-like slink on the wrist, with enough rigidity to keep it from feeling loose yet flexible enough not to kink. It does a lot to elevate the Reverso, which many consider a strap watch, to the status of a standalone piece. On the wrist, it’s a dream.
The polished sliding clasp is a little element that may be precisely adjusted for a great fit. In inferior, aftermarket Milanese-style bracelets, this sliding clasp is normally only fitted in slots on the underside of the bracelet, however here it can catch and shut in any location.
The bracelet, which undoubtedly took time to develop and perfect, arrives opportune in a market obsessed with 1960s and 1970s mesh and woven bracelet styles, a phenomenon known as the “geezer watch” fad. While I wouldn’t classify the current Reverso as a geezer watch, far from it, it is certain that watch fans are returning to this age one in which bracelet-making craft is central to the design. Or, going back even further to the 1940s and 1950s, collectors are paying exorbitant rates for Gay Frères bracelets designed to complement their vintage pieces.
Competitors are also taking notice of the watch aficionado, who is obsessed with bracelets. At the same Watches and Wonders event that JLC unveiled this Tribute, Rolex debuted two new bracelets: the Land Dweller’s Flat Jubilee and the 1908 Settimo. This is the first time Rolex has introduced two new bracelet alternatives in the same year. To round out the trend, Patek Philippe’s Ellipse ref. 5738/1R on a chain-style bracelet from 2024 must be acknowledged.
This new Reverso is priced at $41,300, which puts it between the Rolex 1908 on Settimo ($35,900) and Patek Philippe’s Ellipse on a chain-style bracelet ($61,630). Within JLC’s collection, it is the only all-gold bracelet without gemsetting. Cartier’s 2023 Privé Normale on the Brick bracelet was priced at $46,400 in yellow gold despite being out of production.
You can read luxury watch news here!