What We Know:
Biver, which is already two years old, just released the final edition of its debut model, the Biver Carillon Tourbillon, as part of what the brand refers to as its Signature Series. The two variants are based on the original Calibre JCB-001-B and are available in titanium or two-tone titanium and 18-karat rose gold casings. The matched dials are crafted from 18-karat white gold and titanium, or rose gold and titanium, and feature white gold chemin de fer outer tracks.
We’ve already written extensively on the Biver Carillon Tourbillon. It was a daring approach to introduce the brand, which has since been iterated with many Metiers d’Art-driven releases. The initial introduction centred primarily on stone dials (a favourite of inventor Jean-Claude Biver). Last year, Biver released an “Automatique” time-limited model, accompanied by a suite of updated versions. However, the framework of the first Automatiques is vintage-inspired, with multi-textured dials. The new Signature Series then appears, closing off the dial that formerly exhibited the tourbillon. That look now complements the vintage-inspired casing, which features longer lugs similar to those found on some early Patek models.
The watches are paired with titanium or titanium and rose gold bands featuring micro-adjustment, which provides 4mm of extra room on the bracelet. The company now offers a pair of matching cufflinks for an additional fee, a feature shared by brands such as Patek and AP. The hand-brushed gold inlays are enclosed by a concave bezel, reminiscent of the finish and architecture of the comparable watches, which also have top-to-bottom hand finishing. The watches cost CHF 475,000.
What We Think
My initial impression is that they are the best-looking variants of the Biver Carillon Tourbillon yet, making it an appropriate sendoff for the brand’s debut model. The Biver brand faced significant criticism for its debut entrance on stage, particularly with the launch of such a high-priced first model. Pierre Biver told me that they felt starting with something simpler would not have gotten as much attention and would have made it more challenging to grow upscale. I agree. But, while I liked the concept and felt the finish was excellent, these are considerably superior.
I’m not a big fan of two-tone watches, but that model’s dial is sturdy. The titanium is much more to my liking. But, speaking of solid, closing the dial and hiding the tourbillon is the most essential cosmetic upgrade. It’s a very Patek-like thing to do (for those who aren’t aware, Patek never displays the tourbillon on the dial side unless the watch has a sapphire display) and would be a nice fit for anyone looking to match their Automatique.
The Basics
Brand: Biver.
Model: Carillon Tourbillon Signature Series Titanium and Two Tone
Diameter: 42mm.
Thickness: 13.7mm
Case Material: Titanium or Titanium with 18k Rose Gold Dial.
Colour: Titanium and 18k white gold or 18k rose gold
Indexes: Applied white gold chemin de fer.
Lume: None.
Water resistance is 50m: The bracelet is made of titanium or titanium and rose gold and features a folding clasp with micro-adjustability.
The movement
Calibre is JCB-001-B.
Functions: hours, minutes, carillon minute repeater, tourbillon.
Diameter: 34 mm
Thickness: 7.1 mm
Power reserve: 72 hours.
Winding: Automatic via bidirectional platinum microrotor.
Frequency: 3 Hz (21,600 vph).
Jewels: 44.
Additional Details: 374 components; Sapphire crystal with inner anti-reflective coating; Display caseback with sapphire crystal.
Biver Watch Pricing and Availability Details
Price: CHF 475,000.
Availability: Now available through the brand’s online boutique, Hong Kong lounge, and retail partners, including Material Good in the US. Limited edition: Yes, five pieces of two-tone and two pieces of titanium.
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