Blancpain has released two new Fifty Fathoms models in 38-millimetre case sizes for the first time. And, while this may appear to be the end of the sizing cold war standoff that has damaged so many dainty-wristed egos, a cease-fire is seldom that straightforward. Blancpain states that these two new watches, each featuring a mother-of-pearl dégradé display, are specifically designed and developed for ladies.
Regardless of gender, a Blancpain Fifty Fathoms in a 38-millimeter case has been a long time coming. It appears that enthusiasts and collectors have long sought a vintage-sized, yet modernly built, version of the iconic diver. Your Hodinkee buddies have also offered assistance. They did you a solid in 2020 with the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms MIL-SPEC Limited Edition for Hodinkee, which was quite competitively priced at a very attractive 40 millimetres. Of course, it was a limited-edition run that sold out quickly. While Blancpain has been turning out a plethora of solid Fifty Fathoms offers lately, the model line has remained on the upper end of the size spectrum at 42 and 45 millimetres. Potentially alienating those with smaller wrists.
Of the two new arrivals, the black MOP dial in an 18-karat polished red gold case is likely the most iconic and known to Fifty Fathoms fans. Blancpain claims that the new case size is not simply a reduction of old models but rather a redesign to maintain well-balanced proportions and that the case side ‘Blancpain’ engraving, which can be found on larger models, has been retained.
Both types are genuine dive watches, measuring 12 millimetres thick to balance the 38-millimeter width. They all have domed sapphire unidirectional luminous timing bezels with easy-to-read Arabic numeral markings at 12, 3, 6, and 9, which, like the indices, are lume-filled. The hands are also lumped, and the second hand has a crimson tip on both variants. The watches are water-resistant to 300 meters, and the automatic Blancpain calibre 1153 ticks at 3 Hz, with a power reserve of 100 hours (approximately four days).
The pink MOP dial edition, with a matching pink bezel, is unquestionably the more unusual of the two; however, its brushed titanium body makes it a very modern tool watch. While the pink dial version comes with either the two-tone pink and white fabric strap or the matching titanium bracelet, owners of the precious metal-cased model can choose between sail-canvas, tropic rubber, or a fabric NATO-style strap. Except for the NATO, each strap can be secured with a pin buckle or a folding clasp.
While full pricing and specifications are listed below, the pink/titanium variant starts at CHF 15,500, while the black/gold model begins at $31,600.
What We Think.
Limiting a new watch’s possible consumer base by stating its intended gender appears to be a quaint and out-of-date statement from Blancpain in an era when much of the industry no longer labels or markets timepieces based on gender. Even so, males may be drawn to one or both of these models because of their proportions and colour scheme.
Regardless, with these new models, Blancpain has proven that it is both willing and capable of producing the Fifty Fathoms in this unisex diameter, which is surely intriguing for those hoping for a more conventional version of the current Fifty Fathoms in the new, smaller size. “The new 38 mm case size opens the door to future additions within the Fifty Fathoms family,” the brand stated.
The Basics
Brand: Blancpain.
Model: Fifty Fathoms Automatique
Reference: Black dial: 5007 3644A B64, 5007 3644A NABA, and 5007 3644A B5 z.
Pink dial: Reference 5007 12B44R NAFA / 5007 12B44R 98S.
Diameter: 38.2 mm
Thickness: 12mm
Case Material: Grade 23 titanium or 18k red gold.
Dial Color: Mother of pearl with black or pink dégradé.
Indexes: Red or white gold with Super-LumiNova.
Water resistance: 30 bar (300 m).
Strap/Bracelet: Tropic, NATO, sail-canvas with gold pin buckle or gold folding clasp; grade 23 titanium bracelet; or two-tone fabric strap with titanium pin buckle or folding clasp
The Movement
Blancpain manufactures Calibre 1153.
Functions: hours, minutes, and seconds.
Diameter: 26.2 mm
Thickness: 3.25mm
Power reserve: 100 hours.
Winding: Automatic.
Frequency: 3 Hz (21600 kph)
Jewels: 28 Chronometer Certified: No.
Blancpain Pricing & Availability Details
Price: Black MOP dial with sail canvas, tropic, or NATO strap with gold pin buckle. $31,600. Sail-canvas or tropic, with gold folding clasp $34,600 | Pink MOP dial, titanium case, fabric strap with titanium pin buckle, CHF 15,500 to CHF 18,200 for titanium bracelet (US pricing not yet available).
Availability: Now.
Limited Edition: No.
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