A platinum and salmon release may have eclipsed the new Calatrava 5328G 8-Day, but it remains a desirable watch.
Suppose you’ve been following Patek Philippe for the past few years. In that case, you’ve probably noticed the rise of a new style of Calatrava 5328G design inspired by the textured grips of a camera, a bolder case design reminiscent of the angular shapes of the vintage ref. 3448, and the subtle addition of a hobnail pattern that runs uninterrupted around the entire midcase. If you wear a Patek Philippe daily but prefer something more casual and rustic, the ref. 5226G centers second Calatrava or ref. 5326G Annual Calendar Travel Time is just what you need. The ref. 5328G now includes a powerful eight-day power reserve.
I understand the attractiveness of the new reference 6196P. Ben argued that it’s the best Calatrava in a generation, and I can’t disagree. Many individuals would say that a Calatrava is a fancy accessory; in 99% of cases, they are true. But, while I know the ref. 5328G is part of Patek’s Calatrava line; I see it as quite different: the most gorgeous and costly field watch on the market.
Field watches do not require extreme waterproofness because they are not intended to be submerged in water. So, while the ref. 5328G has the same 30m water resistance that Patek has made standard across their product line since last year; I doubt you’ll be taking a white gold Calatrava swimming. However, you’re presumably not using it as a field watch. However, it is the closest similarity I can discover.
The change to a blue dial with a black gradient rim, white gold applied numerals, and white luminescent coating should make it more adaptable than the anthracite dials with yellow-toned lume. The dial is also precisely balanced, which is remarkable for a more intricate Calatrava. With the addition of a day and date and the large 8 (plus) day power reserve, it would be an ideal high-end field watch if you’re prepared to spend $70,700 on one.
I like the design of the new manually wound 31-505 8J PS IRM CI J caliber. It boasts a classic design with the bridge layout, big half plate, Geneva stripes, and solid chamfers for a brand-produced movement (not as polished as the independents, but still pretty appealing).
The movement includes clever features you’d expect from Patek: immediate jumping day and date, demarcation of the eight-day power reserve, and an extra 9th day in red. The only drawback of the movement is that the day and date are set with a stylus, and you must update the date at least five times per year.
According to my understanding of the oral history of the development of this case design, Patek’s CEO, Thierry Stern, wanted these watches (and prior models) to have a midcase with a continuous and uninterrupted hobnail or Clous de Paris design. Patek accomplished this by suspending the lugs against the band of the case back, which holds the sapphire case back in place. We’re used to seeing welded or screwed lugs, but this is something completely different. At 41mm by 10.52mm, it’s proportional enough to wear well, especially with the power reserve. The watch is presented with a navy blue calfskin strap with a fabric design and an additional grained taupe strap with a gold patented triple-blade fold-over clasp.
I understand that the argument is a little complex or emotional based on “vibes”; comparing a $70,700 Calatrava 5328G to a $600 Hamilton Khaki Field is a bit ludicrous. However, it may be a valid comparison for someone (or several people) in the market if the reference 6196P is the new “it” dressy Calatrava 5328G. Why can’t the 5328G be your daily companion? Or, on rare occasions, once a week or so, it’s a watch you can rely on to keep the time (and date) when you pick it up again.
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