The Rolex Daytona remains unbeaten. When Rolex introduced the Land-Dweller with a brand-new caliber at Watches and Wonders this year, it stole the show for the crown and all companies. But, to give you a glimpse beyond the curtain of insights we get at Hodinkee, a simple post I wrote about eight new (or re-launched) Daytonas received more attention than virtually any other story we published that week, except the Land-Dweller.
An incident like that demonstrates how popular the Daytona is despite minor model changes. Only one edition, in yellow gold with a turquoise lacquer dial and Oysterflex bracelet, was more than a refresh. But there was a large green elephant in the room that we knew we had to confront. Returning for an encore, the “John Mayer” gets a new look.
Hodinkee has come full circle with the release of this yellow-gold, green-dialed Daytona, ref. 126508. Six years ago, Ben met with a guy called John Mayer for a follow-up conversation about his experience collecting watches. Mayer said, “How does nobody notice this?” When looking at an all-gold, on-bracelet Daytona with a colorful dial, collectors should have (and eventually did) responded appropriately. The watch, ref. 116508 debuted in 2016 as the “John Mayer Daytona” and lasted until 2023 when it was discontinued.
Both the yellow and white gold versions have returned with several modifications. Still, while the blue dial looks the same, the “John Mayer 2.0” (as the internet has dubbed it – I would have gone with “Chairman Mayer”) has received a more significant makeover. The most real and beneficial modifications are within the casing, but arguing that the most crucial change is the dial’s vibe shift is pointless. While the ref. 116508 had a green dial with green subdials and red accents; the new ref. 126508’s yellow subdials make it feel more like a late 1970s watch. That is a considerable improvement.
To understand why, we’ll need to review some history, so if that’s not your thing, scroll ahead to the comparison and review part below. I will not hold it against you (much).
Exploring the Evolution of Modern and Neo-Vintage Daytona Design
Many customers typically consider Steel Daytonas a ” grail, ” and I understand why. It is the most economical option in the Daytona family and the most adaptable in terms of wearability. But I have specific preferences when it comes to Daytonas. My two least favorite design aspects on the current line are the metal bezels featured on yellow, white, and rose gold Daytonas with bracelets and the contrasting “ringed” subdials found on practically every other Daytona with a metal bracelet. These elements were anachronistically neo-vintage for a modern product line with improved movements as recently as 2023.
Ringed subdials first emerged on dials in 1987 (officially in 1988) with the release of the first automated Daytona, ref. 16520. The watch had undergone substantial alterations on numerous levels; with the El Primero-based caliber and an upsized casing (from 37mm to 40mm), it was the most distinct the watch has appeared since it was christened Daytona. While you could argue that the subdial rings are a tribute to the sloped subdials of the ref. 6239 and Pre-Daytona ref. 6238 that came before it, I can’t help but identify the design with those neo-vintage 1980s models.
Then there’s the ceramic (or “Cerachrom”) bezel. Rolex’s proprietary material has been a fixture throughout their sports and professional models. Yet, if I asked you which Daytona reference came first, most people would answer incorrectly. That honor goes to the Everose ref. 116515 was produced in 2011 with a cream dial and the model’s first black bezel in 23 years. Two years later, for the 50th anniversary of Daytona, the platinum variant with a brown Cerachrom bezel was introduced.
The sunray-brushed dials designed by Singer for some of the earliest automatic Daytonas in the early 1990s provide more background. These brushed dials with ring subdials were produced in minimal quantities in 1990/1991 because demand was deemed so low that they were not commercially viable. Instead, as the tale goes, the dials were placed on watches that were never sold but rather gifted to the most senior Rolex executives, earning the watch the nickname “Chairman.” In 2021, an example sold at Christie’s for almost $400,000.
So, if you’re like me and care about the looks of the Daytona, you’ve undoubtedly been eyeing the Oysterflex variants with Cerachrom bezels and a more classic subdial layout. In truth, it wasn’t the anniversary “100” or “lollipop” subdials, but rather the combination of black Cerachrom bezel and reverse panda design that made the 2023 Le Mans Daytona my “perfect” modern Daytona. It was the fact that the Le Mans distilled everything excellent about Daytona and its history into modern packaging, culminating in a watch with a matching metal band.
Unpacking the Hype Around the New ‘John Mayer’
When I checked the Rolex website at midnight in a conference room in Geneva during Watches and Wonders, the first thing that struck my eye was the new Daytona ref. 126508. It wasn’t just the full yellow-gold spray-coated subdials but the intense hue of the green sunburst-finished dial. Most reviews (and reels) that have not seen the watch in person will note that this is one of the most dramatic improvements. They’re neither wrong nor correct. For context, see the original (first two images) and replacement watch (the following two images) below.
Compared to the previous generation, ref. 116508, the green appears brighter but not as dramatically as the Rolex product page images, which show the watch in an unnatural lighting situation with no shadows or angularity to the light, demonstrating how light can change the appearance of the high-gloss sunburst effect on the dial. In shade or soft light, the central area of the dial becomes significantly darker, with the green color only visible in the dial’s burst or where a patch of highlight reflects a green luminous haze.
The ref. 126508 is a “five-liner” like the previous model. Rolex. Oyster perpetual. Excellent chronometer. Officially certified. Cosmograph. It also has the red “Daytona” writing above the 6 o’clock subdial, which counts the running seconds (as did the prior). Each yellow gold-toned spray-coated subdial has an inner part with its sunburst finish, which begins around the hand’s post. A yellow printed circle now surrounds that section, replacing the red of the previous edition, and the subdial markers are printed in black on a matte section of the dial: the yellow gold hands and applied indexes with Chromalight lume.
The most significant update to the watch is the caliber 4131 movement, which is part of a new generation of vertical clutch column wheel movements that have been powering the collection since 2023 and can be seen through the platinum Daytona’s display case back (the Le Mans has the caliber 4132). The cessation of the 4130 movement inside the original “John Mayer” contributed to its demise. Rolex would not want to maintain two versions of a movement in production simultaneously, but they also did not want to renew the entire product line simultaneously.
The caliber 4131, which runs at 28,800vph and has a 72-hour power reserve, incorporates a Chronergy escapement, Paraflex shock absorbers, and improved ball bearings, with fewer components than the 4130 before it but better finishing. Rolex has closed the case, so you won’t see that finished. It’s a decision I don’t mind; Rolex movements are lovely for one of the best industrially manufactured products on the market, but I don’t need to see them, and I’d rather have a case that I can engrave. However, new movements are rarely the focus of attention, and in this case, the dial continues to steal the show.
The rest of the watch should feel familiar if you’ve recently seen a current-generation Daytona in person. The case is 40mm by 11.9mm, with additional weight from the Oyster bracelet. The bracelet includes the 5mm Easy-link comfort adjustment system and a safety clasp.
The remaining components of the equation are price and availability. According to my research, the ref. 116508 – the “O.G. John Mayer” – retailed for $38,700 before being discontinued. A complete set example sells for between $65,000 and $70,000 on the secondary market, over twice the retail price. The new “John Mayer 2.0” costs $48,400 retail, representing a nearly $10,000 increase. Tariffs and the cost of gold, which has climbed by around 62% since 2023, will surely impact that pricing.
The ref. 126508 performs substantially better in person than in photographs or Rolex drawings. Fantastic. It’s not what I expected from a current Rolex Daytona: yellow gold with a black sunburst dial, full yellow gold subdials (or invert the two), and a black Cerachrom bezel. I’ve been seeking the yellow-gold ref. 6263. That’s not what we got, but we might have gotten something as excellent, if not better, with a newer movement, better construction, and a pop of extra color than Rolex would have done in the 1980s. It’s far from subtle, but since when is that what you look for in a gold Rolex?
I indicated previously that Hodinkee is experiencing a full-circle moment. This is also one for myself. I grew up a block from Lambeau Field, where the Green Bay Packers play, so I have a strong affinity for green and gold. Rummele’s Jewelers, where my great-grandparents, grandparents, and parents shopped for decades, apparently sold one of, if not the last, original John Mayers to someone linked with the Packers.
Plus, when looking for old vibes, I spotted something else. Looking back at the thumbnails of the photographs I took, I see ref if I squint a little. 6265/8 from the 1980s is very different with all the color and larger scale, but with a touch of vintage inspiration, we haven’t seen in decades. “How does nobody notice this?” Okay, John. I doubt anyone will miss it this time.
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