What We Know So Far About Longines
Longines has just released the latest addition to its Spirit Zulu Time collection, a two-tone version of the brand’s iconic travel watch, coinciding with the 100th anniversary of its first watch capable of showing two time zones. The new watch, aptly dubbed the Spirit Zulu Time 1925, bears no similarity to the vintage model referenced in its name, but it continues the brand’s 39mm travel watch range.
The bezel is the most noticeable modification in this latest version of the 39mm Zulu Time – a circularly brushed 5N 18k rose-gold capped bezel insert adds a significant amount of coppery luster to the stainless steel case. The bezel’s 24-hour numerals are engraved with no infill, giving it a more raw metallic appearance. This design decision, along with the restriction of a brushed treatment, provides the watch with a nice appearance on the wrist that scratches the need for precious metal while remaining rather practical.
A matte black dial is accented by rose-gold accents on the applied numerals, handset, and dial print. One of my favorite Zulu Time design elements is the chamfered metal ring that connects the diamond-shaped Super-LumiNova hour markers, which adds depth to the dial as it catches the light. Five applied stars, a Zulu Time collection signature, and possibly the most criticized feature of the design remain on the dial between “Zulu Time” and “Chronometer.” The years “1925 – 2025” are engraved beneath the date window at 6 o’clock as a subtle homage to the centennial celebration.
The case’s measurements remain the same as the rest of the line: 39mm diameter, 13.5mm case height, and 46.7mm lug-to-lug. It’s supplemented by a steel bracelet with polished chamfers in the center, five micro-adjustment points, and an extra black NATO strap in the box. Those familiar with the Spirit Zulu Time may notice that the 1925 model has a sapphire case back for the first time. The ETA-made Longines-exclusive flying GMT caliber L844.4 is on full display, with a silicon balance spring, 72 hours of power reserve, and COSC certification.
The Longines Spirit Zulu Time 1925 is available from authorized merchants for $4,350.
What We Think
If you asked me to predict where the Spirit Zulu Timeline would go, this was not where I expected the brand to take it. Overall, this new 1925 watch is quite aesthetically beautiful. It’s an innovative method to have a lot of gold on a watch at this price, and having the bezel insert gold capped rather than gold plated makes all the difference. The rose gold has a beautiful coppery tone that isn’t overly saturated.
This isn’t the first time Longines has given the Spirit Zulu Time a two-tone design there’s also a steel and yellow gold version but the execution is a little different, with gold capping on the crown and outer bezel and a ceramic insert. The 1925 execution is more appealing to my preferences, with a rough overall appearance without the glossy ceramic finish.
Even better is the cost compared to the yellow gold version, which I don’t say often these days. While the Spirit Zulu Time with yellow gold cap costs $4,800, this new 1925 is significantly less at $4,350, even though this watch appears to have more gold. It’s an intriguing effort, and if you wish for a splash of rose gold on your GMT, your wishes have been granted.
The Brand: Longines
Model: Spirit Zulu Time,
Reference Number: L3.803.5.53.6.
Diameter: 39mm
Thickness: 13.5mm
Case Material: stainless steel.
Dial Color: Black.
Indexes: Applied
Lume: Yes, Super-LumiNova
Water resistance: 100m Strap/bracelet: Steel with additional black NATO
The movement
caliber is L844. 4 Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, and GMT.
Power reserve: 72 hours.
Winding: Automatic.
Frequency: 25,200 VpH.
Jewels: 21 Chronometer Certified: Yes, COSC certified.
Pricing and Availability.
Price: $4,350.
Availability: Now.
Limited Edition: No.
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