Patek Ref. 96 sets the tone for a sizzling season in the watch world. We’ve entered the dog days of summer, and, as our own Andy Hoffman revealed yesterday, the used watch market had its best quarterly performance in three years. I’d always assumed that “dog days of summer” related to physical dogs being warmer than usual. Still, I learned today that it’s called after Sirius, the Dog Star, the brightest star in the constellation Canis Major (“Greater Dog”). As it turned out, the ancient Greeks and Romans saw that Sirius rose with the Sun at this time of year and assumed that the combined strength of the Sun and Sirius created the unusually hot weather. The more you know.
Anyway, two of last week’s picks got new homes. Our tropical Tudor Submariner sold for £9,600 at Bonhams in London, while the Audemars Piguet skeleton fetched $11,000 on Loupe This. It’s a busy time of year, and the entire dog days thing has shaken me to my core. Let’s get right to the point: this week’s “best” timepieces for sale on the internet, including a standout Patek Ref. 96 that deserves a closer look.
1941 Patek Ref. 96 Calatrava in 18k Rose Gold with Black Dial
The Patek Ref. 96 – the original Calatrava — has recently gained popularity among enthusiasts, yet it remains a contentious watch 93 years later. The “cool” thing to do is like them (guilty as charged), but the more realistic among us may cringe at the 30.5mm casing diameter. As a fan, I’ll defend the humble 96 by claiming that the proportions are fantastic. If you only consider that one measurement, I can see why you wouldn’t want this watch, but please try it on first. The 18mm lug width makes a significant impact.
Stepping down from the soapbox, the Patek Ref. 96, the OG Calatrava, was produced for over four decades, until 1973, and served as the foundation for Patek’s plain round timepiece line. It is regarded as the brand’s first serially produced wristwatch, and it would go on to represent what distinguishes a dress watch as such. I could continue to scream about the reference, but I’m guessing my more confident horological historian readers have already rolled their eyes once or twice.
This specific watch isn’t just any old 96; it’s one of the most desired precious metal variations available. This early second series example, encased in rose gold (pink if you like), features an essential and desirable black dial. Black dialed 96s in yellow or rose gold are among the most unusual, not considering the unique or nearly unique versions, and are certainly a collector’s dream. There is a sycophantic passion for original instances of any reference with a gold case and black dial among vintage Patek collectors. It’s all about the wrist’s exclusivity and unusual appearance. If you see someone in public wearing a vintage Patek with a black dial, please introduce yourself.
The sample presented here raises the age-old question of rarity and originality vs the three C’s of antique watch collecting – condition, condition, and condition. Simply put, this person is honest but has had a life. The dial exhibits cracks and bubbling on the lacquer finish, but most significantly, according to certain collectors, it has not been cleaned, refurbished, or “messed with.” It is original, as is the case, which shows wear and evidence of a prior polish but was not prepared for sale at any point throughout its 84-year history.
The last original Patek Ref. 96 with a black dial and rose gold case sold for $35,280 at Sotheby’s in 2021, just before the reference’s recent surge of popularity. The condition there was original, but not flawless. A near-perfect yellow gold specimen sold for $79,459 at Phillips in May, the highest price ever paid for a watch of this type. Today’s watch, presented as found with a Patek Extract from the Archives confirming the dial type, is far less expensive than the two preceding examples.
The vendors, Niko and Ari of Steel City Vintage Watches, in Bethlehem, PA, are seeking $33,000 for this unusual Patek Ref. 96.
1970s Audemars Piguet Ref. 5205 Automatic in 18k White Gold
Moving slightly away from the ultra-rare, we come across an Audemars Piguet time-and-date reference from the 1970s. This simple yet fascinating white gold watch, powered by the caliber K2072, provides excellent value. In the mid-1960s, AP began to raise wristwatch production slightly, although by the hundreds rather than thousands. Previously, the firm manufactured so few timepieces that it didn’t take much. This production rise gained traction in the 1970s, with the launch of the Royal Oak, when the brand began acquiring automatic ébauches from JLC in bulk.
The movement is one of those JLC ébauches, although it’s worth noting that Audemars Piguet finished to a very high standard in-house. With more instances on the market than most other vintage AP references, watches like the 5205 are frequently ignored as common and under $10,000. For a 35mm diameter, solid 18k white gold, fantastic-looking Calatrava-esque watch from AP, I find that a little outrageous.
1970s Movado Saint Christopher Dial in Gold-Filled Case
There’s no denying my fondness for vintage Movado. In terms of quality across the catalog, I believe the brand outperforms its vintage market price competitors. That is just talking about the product, but there is so much more to explore with this brand in terms of storytelling. This week’s Movado is representative of one of the best anecdotes about the brand I’ve ever heard.
During the classic era, Movado used only the best case and dial suppliers in Switzerland, the same company that made components for Patek Ref. 96, Vacheron Constantin, and Audemars Piguet. One of them was the master dialmaker Stern Créations SA. Movado contracted Stern for many of their dials across the catalog, but in the early 1970s, the brand commissioned a guilloché dial specialist to create this, a Saint Christopher dial.
La Nationale, the guilloché expert, lived next door to Stern in Geneva. Due to the tragic death of a craftsman at La Nationale, the manufacturer was unable to fulfill Movado’s order for around 50 of these dials. So, in 1971, La Nationale subcontracted Stern to manufacture this batch of dials, providing seven machines for this style of guilloché engraving as well as 300 pattern ideas.
A year later, Stern used these machines and patterns to create the tapisserie method, which resulted in the ref—5402 Royal Oak dial, created in collaboration with Genta. Genta returned in 1976, looking for a dial with a similar style for his latest Patek Philippe project. Stern provided ten tapestry variations, all based on the La Nationale-inherited designs. Ultimately, Henri Stern decided on the final finish for the ref. 3700 Nautilus. So, thanks to Movado and this identical dial, the Royal Oak and Nautilus continue to look the way they do today.
1960s LIP Nautic Super Compressor Dive Watch
This week’s final two picks take us over the pond to France. The first is a rare French diving classic from the 1960s: the LIP Nautic Super Compressor. LIP was a distinctly French watchmaker noted for innovation and strong design throughout the twentieth century. From supplying military clocks to pioneering electric-mechanical hybrid movements, the firm helped shape European horology.
The Nautic Super Compressor is a watch I had not seen before, but it follows a well-known 1960s pattern, combining an EPSA super compressor casing with a deep black dial embellished with a heavy application of tritium lume. The casing is a fascinating example of old watch technology. Rather than a screw-down caseback, EPSA developed a technology within the case that tightens the seal by forcing out more and more when pressure is applied. Collectors drawn to vintage icons like the Patek Ref. 96 may also appreciate the technical ingenuity and design character seen in this rare diver.
The watch features a glossy black tritium display with Arabic numerals, broad-arrow hands, and a lollipop sweep second hand. The dual cross-hatch patterned crowns are used to adjust the handset and the internal bezel. This one is offered for sale just where you want to find one, and it appears to be in pristine shape, with a lovely patina and a sharp casing.
This LIP Nautic is lot 38 in the Ancient and Modern Jewellery – Gold Coins sale at Hôtel des Ventes Montpellier Languedoc in Montpellier, France on Wednesday, July 16th, at 2 AM ET. The estimate is €800 to €850.
1970s Pierre Cardin ‘UFO’ by Jaeger in Stainless Steel
Finishing with a delightful French pick, this Pierre Cardin is more for the design-focused watch lovers among us, but it’s still a terrific vintage piece. Pierre Cardin’s debut into timepieces began in 1971 with the Espace series. This was a daring extension of his space-age design philosophy, and the current example of the “UFO” exemplifies that audacity. The complete collection included 26 highly sculptural models inspired by futuristic films such as 2001: A Space Odyssey and Barbarella, which combined geometric forms with materials like as acrylic and smoked crystal in unusual case designs.
The “UFO” is identified by model codes or reference numbers, such as PC101 or PC115, and has a 40mm brushed stainless steel case in the shape of a flying saucer.
As evidenced by the caseback etching, Cardin collaborated with Jaeger to create the Espace series; however, the specifics of this collaboration are debatable among watch historians. It’s uncertain whether Jaeger-LeCoultre and Jaeger France were separate enterprises at the time. The movement is not a JLC, but rather the French ébauche caliber FE-36. The watches were manufactured in France rather than Switzerland, prompting collectors to believe that this Jaeger was not identical to the JLC of Le Sentier.
This Pierre Cardin “UFO” is lot 105 in the Summer Heteroclite Sale at Carvajal SVV in Antibes, France, which begins today, Friday, July 11th, at 10 PM ET. The estimate ranges from €100 to €200.
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