Two years after Xhevdet Rexhepi’s initial announcement, the watches are now nearing completion and they’re one of the best independent releases I’ve seen in that time.
It’s long past time to discuss Xhevdet Rexhepi. It may be the right time. When we last spoke with Rexhepi in February 2023, he was introducing his brand and first watch, the Minute Inerte. However, there were many doubts regarding the watchmaker and his merchandise because the piece only existed in renderings, and the concept was difficult to express through writing.
Rexhepi isn’t a common name, so it’s no surprise that following an apprenticeship at Patek Philippe, he joined his older brother Rexhep Rexhepi at Akrivia in 2015. But, after seven years, Xhevdet decided it was time to go his way, introducing his brand and the Minute Inerte.
Like many complicated things, the concept appeared to be easy at first glance. Create a mechanical wristwatch that mimics the action of a Swiss railway clock, completing one revolution of the second hand in 58 seconds before rocking ahead in synchrony with the minute hand.
Collectors of independent watchmakers expressed strong interest. But then nothing happened for a while. The watch was delivered to the 2023 GPHG jury; however, members informed me it did not work. I didn’t see it in person until late last year, and due to some confusion, I assumed the watch was still not functional. The keyless works did not set the time, but when I saw Xhevdet in Geneva before to Watches and Wonders, he said that this was by design on the prototypes – he had so many people staring at his watch that he didn’t want to put it through the extra wear.
One may argue that this story is unduly late. But, at the same time, Rexhepi will begin delivering his first works later this summer, and, unlike the current youthful crop of indies, he has chosen not to sell out. He told me that he despises the prospect of meeting an honest collector with whom he gets along and not having any allocation left. As a result, he has held back a few watches.
Which is surprising given how incredible the Minute Inerte is. Truly remarkable. I’ve begun to delve deeply into independence in recent years. Yet, as easily enthusiastic as I am, after a brief pause, I discovered that most independents fall short of a product without flaw. Sometimes dials miss the target, prices appear unreasonably expensive, or movements lack something – polish, complication, elegance, or that unique touch, just something. Recently, my primary concern has been case design, which flies under the radar of novice watchmakers. I can’t claim Rexhepi has missed the mark on anything.
According to the wall in his office (recently converted into a seating area), Xhevdet carefully analyzed every design aspect. Therewatch design has two approaches: dial down or movement up. François-Paul Journe builds on the dial concept and creates a movement that works with it. Other brands (large and small) frequently treat the dial as an afterthought. Logotype and location, index length, the presence of an aperture, or none might all seem arbitrary. This is not the case with Minute Inerte.
I usually dislike apertures on dials. They might frequently come across as very “open heart” because they are attempting to appease a first-time consumer and make them feel like they have a mechanical watch. While there isn’t as much going on here as a tourbillon or the remontoir on F.P. Journe’s Chronomètre à Résonance, the aperture reveals the architectural inspiration throughout the watch. Rexhepi chose a brick finish influenced by his love of architecture (which differs from the Zenith G.F.J.), although this is not the only architectural inspiration.
In addition to the stepped dial and singular “1” at 1-o’clock (to represent his first watch in a series of 12 he intends to make), the 3, 6, 9, and 12 o’clock hour indices (6-o’clock doubling as a bridge for the second hand) are designed to resemble the keystone at the top of an archway. They’re mirror-polished and extremely finely constructed, and that beauty extends to the movement side.
Aside from the bridges’ geometry and semi-symmetry, I appreciate the Minute Inerte movement’s aesthetic. It features dramatic Geneva stripes, black-polished surfaces, and a frosted mainplate, combining French and Swiss finishing techniques. Xhevdet Rexhepi’s touch adds symmetry and handcrafted quality to the movement, making it elegant and unique.
Then there’s the case which many makers take for granted. Please look at other prominent names in the indie area, look at the case form and lugs, and then compare them to microbrands and consumer items from around the industry. There’s a lack of innovation, replaced with typical circular cases, sloping lugs with brushed surfaces and sometimes a chamfer, and not much else. Xhevdet Rexhepi drew inspiration for his platinum case from a vintage Ebel pocket watch he acquired from Joël Laplace.
The case’s central part is stepped, with a descending convex bezel flattening to the main section of the mid-case, which is also concave but narrows to a UFO-style point that can only be seen from the side. From the side, the lugs resemble a cross-section of the same case, with the same stepped design, but truncated to connect to the case. Xhevdet Rexhepi sketched out the design in front of me to demonstrate how it progressed, and it was fascinating to witness the process on paper.
Xhevdet Rexhepi will release 50 platinum watches with pastel blue dials, 10 in green, and 10 in an unspecified hue. He also intends to change the subsidiary seconds dial from a 60- to 58-second scale for greater accuracy, a minor but clever modification that will not impair overall wearability.
The Minute Inerte fits exceptionally well. The 38mm by 8.5mm case form leans toward current dimensions without being overly large but with a longer, sloping shape reminiscent of a Vichet case on a Patek ref. 2497 or 2499. When set flat on a table, the watch sits slightly off the case back due to the length of the lugs. It’s one of the most comfortable watches I’ve had.
At CHF 89,000, the Minute Inerte provides a lot of bang for your buck and has not gone ignored. Next to Simon Brette, Xhevdet Rexhepi has become the person I’ve had the most requests for introductions. It reminds me of the days when Ben told me how many shameless pleas he had from faraway acquaintances asking for a Patek Nautilus ref. 5711/1A. But, in some respects, that could be a good thing. If the interest in this new generation of independents is genuine rather than market speculation, it gives me a lot of optimism.
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